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How to fill out Utah TC-843

One page, three sections, and the only document in a Utah private sale that carries the whole transaction on its own. It is the form the Division names under Required for All Transactions on its document checklist, which makes a Utah bill of sale less optional than the phrase usually suggests. It also does two jobs no other Utah form does at once: it records a full odometer certification in the seller's hand, and it asks a question the certificate of title never asks - whether the licence plate is going with the car.

Written against TC-843 (Rev 9/25), issued under Utah Code 41-1a-702 and 41-1a-902. The odometer certification on this sheet and the one on the ownership document have to agree. A buyer arriving with a bill of sale saying one thing and a title saying another has two sworn statements about one car, and the counter reads them against each other.

Two documents, and they are not the same thing. Take the blank TC-843 from the files.tax.utah.gov copy so you get the revision that is current today.

Filled in

What a completed one looks like

This is the actual TC-843, rendered from the PDF the Utah State Tax Commission, Motor Vehicle Division publishes and completed end to end: letterhead, every field, and the blocks at the foot.

Utah form TC-843 filled in for one private sale: a 2014 Toyota 4Runner, vehicle identification number JTEBU5JR0E5170842, sold by Corinne A. Whipple of Bountiful to Tomas E. Ballesteros of Spanish Fork on 11 August 2026 for $18,450.00, with an odometer reading of 138,472 actual miles and the licence plate marked as not included with the sale.
The plate question answered deliberately rather than left blank, and one certification box ticked out of three. Both signature lines are on the sheet because the buyer is certifying the mileage as well.
Field by field

Every line, in the order you meet it

  1. 1
    You fill this in

    Section 1, the vehicle

    Year, make, model, body type, the identification number and the plate number, copied off the certificate of title.

    Watch out: Read the identification number off the document, not the dashboard. A single wrong character here and on the title turns one sale into two documents about two different cars.

  2. 2
    You fill this in

    Section 2, who you are

    Your name in the order the label asks - last, first, middle initial - or the business name, with the address underneath.

    Watch out: Spell it the way the face of the certificate spells it. If your identification says something different, that is a job for a statement of facts rather than for a second spelling here.

  3. 3
    You fill this in

    Sale price

    What the buyer actually paid, in the short box in the middle of your block.

    Watch out: This figure follows the car to the counter and the buyer's tax is calculated on it. Writing down a lower number to be helpful is the thing the Tax Commission audits for.

  4. 4
    You fill this in

    Date of sale

    The day possession changed hands.

    Watch out: It starts the forty-eight hours you have to get the certificate and the registration card to the buyer, and it is the date your report of sale is about.

  5. 5
    You fill this in

    The licence plate question

    One of two ticks: included with the vehicle sale, or not included with the vehicle sale.

    Watch out: Utah lets you do either, and the answer changes what happens next. Included means the buyer has to apply to have the plate assigned to them; not included means you take it off and have twenty days to deal with it.

  6. 6
    You fill this in

    Odometer reading, and the units

    The mileage in whole numbers with no tenths, and a tick for miles or kilometers.

    Watch out: Kilometres are converted to miles on the title, so a car imported from Canada does not need converting by hand - but the units tick has to be right or the conversion happens to a number that was already in miles.

  7. 7
    You fill this in

    One certification of three

    Actual mileage, in excess of the mechanical limits, or not the actual mileage.

    Watch out: Only one. The third box brands the vehicle's mileage record permanently and is not a way of saying that you bought the car second-hand and cannot vouch for it.

  8. 8
    You fill this in

    Seller's signature and date

    One signature under the transfer sentence, with the date beside it.

    Watch out: You are certifying that the title is free and clear of any claims except a lien to the new lien holder. If your own lender has not released yet, that sentence is not true when you sign it.

  9. 9
    The buyer fills this in

    Section 3, the buyer's half

    Name, address, signature and date, under the as is, where is certification and an acknowledgement of the odometer information above.

    Watch out: The address here is where the vehicle will be registered, and it is what sets the sales tax rate the Division charges them. Getting it wrong costs them money, not you.

At a glance

What goes where

On the formWhat to put in it
Section 1: Vehicle Information - Year, Make, Model, Body typeFour boxes across one rule at the top. Copy them from the face of the certificate rather than from an advertisement.
Vehicle/hull identification number (VIN/HIN)One wide box. The word hull is there because the same sheet sells a boat, and the Division titles vessels on the same paper as cars.
License plate numberBeside the identification number, and it matters more than it looks - the plate written here is the plate the tick boxes further down are about.
Section 2: Seller - Name (last, first, middle initial; or business name)Printed the way the certificate of title prints you, in the order the label asks for.
Street address, City, State, ZIP CodeThe seller's address, on the rule under the name.
Sale price: $A short box in the middle of the seller block. This is the figure the buyer's sales and use tax is worked out on.
Date of saleDirectly under the price, and it is the date the whole transfer hangs on.
License plate in Section 1 is: Included with the vehicle sale / Not included with the vehicle saleTwo tick boxes, and the first carries its own instruction in brackets: Form TC-840 required if the plate is personalized.
Odometer Reading - REQUIRED: (no tenths)A single box with the word REQUIRED printed into the label, and a note that tenths are not wanted.
Reading is: Miles / KilometersTwo ticks. The form promises that kilometers will be converted to miles on the title.
The odometer reading is (check one)Three boxes: the actual mileage for this vehicle, the mileage in excess of the odometer's mechanical limits, or not the actual mileage with a warning of an odometer discrepancy.
The warning across the blockPrinted rather than optional: leaving odometer information blank or providing false information may result in fines or imprisonment.
Seller's signature and DateUnder a sentence transferring all rights, title and interest to the new owner and certifying that the title is free and clear of any claims except the lien to the new lien holder, if any.
Section 3: Buyer - Name, address, signature and DateThe buyer signs under a certification that they are aware of the sales and odometer information the seller provided, and that the vehicle is sold in "as is, where is" condition, with no guarantees or warranties.
The two lines at the footMake a copy for your personal records, and report sold vehicles at mvp.tax.utah.gov. Both are instructions to the seller and both are easy to walk past.

What gets this one rejected

Rules that decide whether it is accepted

Every line here was read off TC-843 (Rev 9/25) itself — the PDF is here — and off the Utah State Tax Commission, Motor Vehicle Division pages. This is plain-language help with a form, not legal advice, and where our wording and the agency's differ, theirs governs.

Back to all Utah seller paperwork, or what selling a car in Utah involves.

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