The correction form for a certificate that has already been written on. Arizona does not allow anything on a title to be crossed out or written over, so a wrong name, a wrong sale date or a wrong lienholder is fixed on a separate sheet that travels with the title to the counter. It is signed by the registered owner, which on a botched sale means the seller has to be found again.
Written against 46-0307 (R07/25), issued under A.R.S. 28-2059.
A regular power of attorney will not do this job. ADOT's Odometers Guidelines rule it out by name: using the Power of Attorney, form 48-1001, for an odometer correction or discrepancy is not allowed. If the seller has gone, the odometer error is a real problem rather than a paperwork one.
Two documents, and they are not the same thing. Take the blank 46-0307 from the apps.azdot.gov copy so you get the revision that is current today.
This is the actual 46-0307, rendered from the PDF the Arizona Department of Transportation, Motor Vehicle Division publishes and completed end to end: letterhead, every field, and the blocks at the foot.
Amber — you write it
Grey — not yours to fill
Numbered — explained below
Only the row that is wrong gets filled in. Here it is a sale date ten days out - which sounds trivial until you notice it is the date the buyer's fifteen-day clock and the seller's ten-day clock both run from.
Field by field
Every line, in the order you meet it
1
You fill this in
Owner Name and Certificate of Title Number
The registered owner as the title shows them, and the title number.
Watch out: If your name on the title is not the name you use now, this form will not fix that. That is a One and the Same Certificate, and it can travel with this one.
2
You fill this in
Vehicle Identification Number, Year, Make
The vehicle the mistaken title belongs to.
Watch out: Copy it from the title you are correcting, not from the car. The point of this form is to reconcile a document, and the document is the reference.
3
You fill this in
The buyer row
The wrong buyer name that was written, and the correct one.
Watch out: This is the row that needs a companion form. The person whose name was written in error signs a Release of Interest saying they never took the car.
4
You fill this in
The seller row
The wrong seller name, and the right one.
Watch out: Usually the result of one co-owner signing where the other should have. Check the legal status word on the face before you correct anything.
5
You fill this in
The lienholder row
The wrong lienholder, and the right one - or the word None.
Watch out: A lienholder written in by mistake is a lien on somebody else's car. Correct it before the buyer discovers it two years later when they try to sell.
6
You fill this in
The sale date row
The date written in error, and the date the vehicle actually changed hands.
Watch out: This is the row that waives the buyer's late transfer penalty, which grows for every month the transfer goes unfiled.
7
You fill this in
The two odometer rows
The reading and the reading type that were written, and the correct ones.
Watch out: Only usable where no federal disclosure was required. On anything newer, these two rows are the wrong tool and the counter will say so.
8
You fill this in
Owner Signature and Date
The registered owner signs under the indemnity.
Watch out: Read what you are signing. You are agreeing to defend and indemnify MVD against anything that flows from the correction being wrong.
At a glance
What goes where
On the form
What to put in it
Owner Name and Certificate of Title Number
The registered owner making the correction, and the title the error is on.
Vehicle Identification Number, Year, Make
The vehicle.
Buyer Name Entered in Error / Correct Buyer Name
A paired row: what was written, and what it should have said.
Seller Name Entered in Error / Correct Seller Name
The same pairing for the seller.
Lienholder Name Entered in Error / Correct Lienholder Name (if no lien, enter None)
And again for the lienholder, with the usual instruction to write None rather than leave it blank.
Sale Date Entered in Error / Correct Sale Date
The pairing that most often matters, because the sale date sets the buyer's penalty clock.
Odometer Reading Entered in Error / Correct Odometer Reading
Only usable on a vehicle old enough to be exempt from the federal disclosure.
Odometer Reading Type Entered in Error / Correct Odometer Reading Type
Actual, Mileage in Excess, or Odometer Discrepancy - MVD's codes A, B and C.
The indemnity
Printed above the signature: an acknowledgement that MVD is relying on the truth of the information, and an agreement to defend, hold harmless and indemnify the Division.
Representative Name (if owner is an organization), Owner Signature, Date
The registered owner signs. Nobody else's signature appears on this form.
What gets this one rejected
•A buyer signing it. The form is completed by the registered owner, which is the person who made the entry being corrected.
•Using it to correct mileage on a car that still needs a disclosure. ADOT limits the odometer rows to a vehicle more than ten or twenty years old depending on model year, where no disclosure is required.
•Correcting the title itself instead. The whole reason this form exists is that corrections cannot be made on the same title document.
•Filing it after the transfer. It is submitted along with the title at the time of transfer to the new owner.
•Leaving the correct-value column empty. Each row is a pair, and a row with only the error filled in does not say what the truth is.
Rules that decide whether it is accepted
•A wrong buyer needs two forms. Where the error is in the assignment area, MVD requires this form and a Release of Interest, so that the wrongly named buyer releases any interest while the owner states who the correct buyer is.
•It waives the buyer's late penalty. ADOT lists a Statement of Error from the original owner regarding the sale date among the situations in which the late title transfer penalty fee is waived.
•Newer cars go on a different form. Where an odometer error is on a vehicle that still requires a disclosure, the correction is made on a Power of Attorney with Odometer Disclosure instead, and it has to be signed by the seller.
