How to fill out Arkansas 10-313

The one sheet at the centre of every Arkansas private sale. DFA folds the bill of sale and the federal odometer statement into a single page of nine sections, and the buyer cannot register without it - the registration checklist asks for a bill of sale with the VIN, date of sale, purchase amount and both signatures, and this form carries all four plus the mileage sentence. Its closing section is a warning in bold that evading tax through a false statement is a felony, which tells you what the price blocks are really for: the figure written here is the figure the buyer's sales tax is worked from.

Written against 10-313 (no revision printed), issued under 49 U.S.C. § 32705 and Ark. Code Ann. § 4-90-206. Net Taxable Income is dealer arithmetic - price minus trade-in - and in a private sale it simply equals the full price. Do not treat it as an invitation to deduct anything else: the sixty-day replacement-vehicle credit is claimed at the Revenue Office with the credit bill of sale, not by writing a smaller number here.

Two documents, and they are not the same thing. Take the blank 10-313 from the dfa.arkansas.gov copy so you get the revision that is current today, then print our 10-313 guide and keep it beside you while you fill theirs in.

Step 1 · the form itself Blank 10-313 — Vehicle Bill of Sale / Odometer Disclosure Statement PDF at dfa.arkansas.gov · new tab Step 2 · how to fill it in Our filled-in 10-313 guide PDF · print and keep beside you

Filled in

What a completed one looks like

This is the actual 10-313, rendered from the PDF the Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration, Office of Motor Vehicle publishes and completed end to end: letterhead, every field, and the blocks at the foot.

Amber — you write it
Grey — not yours to fill
Numbered — explained below

Arkansas Form 10-313, Vehicle Bill of Sale and Odometer Disclosure Statement, filled in: a 2016 Ford Fusion SE, vehicle identification number 3FA6P0H79GR305214, sold by Odessa L. Fairbrook of Jonesboro to Terrell J. Duvane of Benton on 9 July 2026 for $8,750, with the odometer declared at 84,317 miles and neither certification box checked. — A cash sale between two people, so the company block and the trade-in row are washed grey along with the Less Trade-In figure - the full price simply repeats as the net. Neither odometer box is ticked, because the reading is the mileage.

Field by field

Every line, in the order you meet it

1
You fill this in
Section 1: the VIN
Seventeen characters, copied from the certificate of title rather than from the windshield.
Watch out: Every document in this sale is matched to the others by this number. Copying it from the title means the bill of sale and the assignment cannot disagree.
2
You fill this in
Section 2 or 3: who is buying
A person goes in Section 2, first name first; a company goes in Section 3 and Section 2 stays empty.
Watch out: Spell the buyer from their driver's license and tick the multiple-owners box if two people are taking the car - how their names join on the new title decides who has to sign things for the rest of the vehicle's life.
3
You fill this in
Section 4: you
Dealer/Seller Name and Address - your name as the title spells it, and where you live.
Watch out: Use the name on the front of the certificate. If you have married or moved since the title was issued, this is a sheet for matching records, not updating them.
4
You fill this in
Sections 5 and 6: the day and the car
The purchase date, then make, model, year and colours across the Vehicle Purchased row.
Watch out: This date starts the buyer's sixty-day registration clock and anchors your own tax credit window if you are replacing the car. Make it the day possession actually changes.
5
You fill this in
Section 7: the odometer sentence
Your printed name in the first blank, the reading in the second, whole miles only.
Watch out: The sentence certifies actual miles unless a box is checked. Check box 1 only for a rolled-over odometer, box 2 only when the figure genuinely is not the mileage - it prints its own WARNING label for a reason.
6
You fill this in
Section 8: the money and the names
Full sales price on the left; your printed name and signature on the right.
Watch out: In a private sale the trade-in line stays empty and the net equals the price. The buyer's sales tax is worked from this figure under the state's banded used-vehicle rates - which is why a made-up number here is a tax matter, not a favour.
7
The buyer fills this in
Section 8 again: the buyer signs
Printed name and signature on the buyer's rules, before anybody drives anywhere.
Watch out: The Revenue Office wants both signatures on the bill of sale. Get them at the handover - a buyer chased for a signature next week is a buyer who has already registered late.
8
You fill this in
Copies, then the credit if you are buying
A copy for each of you - and if you are replacing the vehicle within sixty days, this sheet plus the credit bill of sale is what the trade-in-style tax credit rides on.
Watch out: The form may be reproduced so long as the format and language are not changed, says its own footer - so photocopy the completed sheet freely. What you cannot do is retype it with the warning left off.

At a glance

What goes where

On the form	What to put in it
Section 1 - Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)	Seventeen characters across the opening block, before the form asks who anybody is.
Section 2 - Buyer Information: First Name, Middle Initial, Last Name	The buyer as a person, with a printed instruction above it: if the buyer is a company rather than individuals, go directly to Section 3.
Address and City, State, Zip	The buyer's two address rules, with a checkbox underneath: Check this box if there are multiple owners.
Section 3 - Company Information	Company name and address, used instead of Section 2 when a business is buying. Empty in a sale between two people.
Section 4 - Dealer/Seller Name and Address	One block serving dealers and private sellers alike - your name and address, on the same rules a dealership would use.
Section 5 - Purchase Date	The day the vehicle changed hands, standing in its own section.
Section 6 - Description of Vehicle Purchased and Vehicle Trade-In	Two rows: make, model, year and colours for the vehicle sold, and a second row for a trade-in with its own VIN box - a dealer's row, blank in a private sale.
Section 7 - Odometer Disclosure	The printed sentence with two blanks: I, (sellers printed name) hereby state that the Odometer now reads (no tenths) miles, and the best of my knowledge that it reflects the actual miles, UNLESS one of the items below is checked.
Checkbox 1 - EXCEEDS MECHANICAL LIMITS	Certifies the reading reflects mileage in excess of the odometer's mechanical limits - the rolled-over five-digit odometer case.
Checkbox 2 - WARNING - ODOMETER DISCREPANCY	Certifies the odometer reading is not the actual mileage. The warning is printed into the label.
Section 8 - Sales Price Information - Signatures	Full Sales Price of Vehicle, Less Trade-In, and Net Taxable Income down the left; printed name and signature of seller, then of buyer, down the right.
Section 9 - WARNING	No fields - a bold notice that wilfully evading tax, or helping a taxpayer evade it, is a felony under state law, and a closing line that the form may be reproduced so long as the format and language are not changed.

What gets this one rejected

•A missing signature. The registration checklist wants signatures of seller AND buyer on the bill of sale, and this form prints a rule for each.
•Tenths written into the mileage. The blank says (no tenths) inside the sentence itself, and a decimal point turns a clean reading into a query.
•Both odometer boxes checked. They contradict each other - one says the odometer rolled past its limits, the other says the figure is simply wrong.
•A price that disagrees with the title assignment or the credit bill of sale. The buyer's tax band is set from this figure, and documents about one sale that disagree invite the felony warning in Section 9.
•Section 2 and Section 3 both completed. The form's own instruction routes a company buyer straight past the personal block.
•A trade-in row completed in a private sale. Less Trade-In and the trade-in vehicle row exist for dealer transactions; a private seller taking a car in part exchange is not running a licensed trade.

Rules that decide whether it is accepted

•It is the odometer statement. The FAQ's list of registration documents names Bill of Sale and Odometer Statement as separate items, and this sheet is DFA's answer to both - no second odometer form exists for an ordinary sale.
•The multiple-owners box changes who signs. Tick it and every buyer taking ownership belongs on the paperwork - and remember DFA's joint-ownership rule runs the other way too: sellers joined by AND on the title all sign.

Every line here was read off 10-313 (no revision printed) itself — the PDF is here — and off the Arkansas Department of Finance and Administration, Office of Motor Vehicle pages. This is plain-language help with a form, not legal advice, and where our wording and the agency's differ, theirs governs.

Back to all Arkansas seller paperwork, or what selling a car in Arkansas involves.

How to fill out Arkansas 10-313

What a completed one looks like

Every line, in the order you meet it

Section 1: the VIN

Section 2 or 3: who is buying

Section 4: you

Sections 5 and 6: the day and the car

Section 7: the odometer sentence

Section 8: the money and the names

Section 8 again: the buyer signs

Copies, then the credit if you are buying

What goes where

What gets this one rejected

Rules that decide whether it is accepted

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