For a mileage figure that went onto the title wrong. The form's own first line limits it: it may only be used to make a correction to odometer information incorrectly stated on the title or manufacturer's statement of origin, and the seller of the vehicle must state the reason a correction is needed and make a correct disclosure. It is a seller's form from beginning to end, and it is the one document in the Delaware set that a private seller has to get sworn.
Written against MV809 (Rev 4/2001), issued under the Division of Motor Vehicles, as the correction it will accept against a disclosure already made on a title or a manufacturer's statement of origin. Get the figure right the first time and you never meet this form. The disclosure on the back of a Delaware certificate has to be at or above the mileage the Division printed on the front of the same certificate, and if it is not, the title is rejected rather than corrected at the counter - which turns a five-minute transfer into an affidavit needing two sworn signatures.
Two documents, and they are not the same thing. Take the blank MV809 from the dmv.de.gov copy so you get the revision that is current today, then print our MV809 guide and keep it beside you while you fill theirs in.
This is the actual MV809, rendered from the PDF the Delaware Division of Motor Vehicles publishes and completed end to end: letterhead, every field, and the blocks at the foot.
The identifying row across the top. Tag number with its prefix.
Watch out: Use the tag that was on the car at the time of the disclosure you are correcting, even if the plate has since gone into retention.
The full seventeen characters, from the front of the certificate.
Watch out: This is what ties the affidavit to the record. A single wrong character and the correction attaches to nothing.
Four lines, in your own words: what the first figure was, what it should have been, and how the mistake happened.
Watch out: Write plainly and factually - transposed two digits, read the trip meter, wrote the buyer's figure. This is a sworn statement about an odometer, which is a subject federal law takes seriously.
Whole miles, no tenths, in the block under the printed certification.
Watch out: Read the certification above the box before you write. Filling that box in is a statement that the number is the actual mileage unless you tick one of the two boxes beside it.
Tick it only if a five-digit instrument has passed 99,999 and started again.
Watch out: This is the box for an old car with a low reading, not for a car with high mileage. A modern six-digit odometer never needs it.
Tick it if the instrument was replaced, has been broken, or for any other reason is not showing what the car has done.
Watch out: Ticking it brands the certificate permanently. It is also the honest answer where the honest answer is that nobody knows, and the Division would rather have it than a guess.
Signature of Seller and Printed Name of Seller. Do not sign until you are in front of whoever is going to witness it.
Watch out: A signature already on the page when you reach the counter is a signature the witness did not see you make, and the block above it says witnessed.
Signature of Buyer and Printed Name of Buyer, acknowledging the corrected figure exactly as they acknowledged the original.
Watch out: If they cannot come with you, their signature has to be notarised separately - the form provides a second notarial block for precisely that.
Printed Name of DMV Witness and Signature of DMV Witness, completed by the Division employee who watched you both sign.
Watch out: This is the cheap route. Take the buyer, the certificate and a photo ID each to any of the four facilities and it costs you a queue instead of two notary fees.
Before me personally appeared ______, with day, month, year, the notary's county and state, and a commission expiry - one block for each party.
Watch out: Only used if you are not doing it in front of the Division. Two people signing on two days need two separate notarisations, and the form is built assuming that is what will happen.
| On the form | What to put in it |
|---|---|
| Vehicle Information | Tag number, make, model, year on one row and the vehicle identification number under them. Enough to tie the affidavit to the certificate it is amending. |
| Seller's Reason for Correction | Four ruled lines and no prompts. This is the substance of the form: why the first figure was wrong, in your own words. |
| Seller's Corrected Disclosure | The odometer block, reprinted from the back of the certificate word for word - I certify to the best of my knowledge that the ODOMETER READING is the ACTUAL MILEAGE of the vehicle unless one of the following statements is checked - with the same two boxes beside it. |
| Odometer reading, miles, no tenths | The figure as it should have been written. Whole miles. |
| Box 1 and Box 2 | The mileage stated is in excess of odometer mechanical limits (exceeds 99,999), and the odometer reading is not the actual mileage, WARNING, ODOMETER DISCREPANCY. |
| Four signature and name lines | Signature of Seller and Signature of Buyer, then Printed Name of Seller and Printed Name of Buyer. Both sides sign a correction, exactly as both sides signed the original disclosure. |
| Printed Name of DMV Witness and Signature of DMV Witness | The alternative to a notary, and the reason to do this at a counter. |
| Two notarial blocks | Before me personally appeared ______, who by me duly sworn upon oath says that the statements set forth above are true and correct. One block for the seller and one for the buyer, because the form contemplates them signing on different days. |
Every line here was read off MV809 (Rev 4/2001) itself — the PDF is here — and off the Delaware Division of Motor Vehicles pages. This is plain-language help with a form, not legal advice, and where our wording and the agency's differ, theirs governs.
Back to all Delaware seller paperwork, or what selling a car in Delaware involves.