How to fill out Alaska Form V6

A one-page substitute for a block that is already printed on your title, and the form exists for exactly one situation: the certificate's own odometer section is missing, unusable or already used. The V6 says so itself - if the odometer disclosure section is not available or not used on the vehicle's title or Manufacturer's Certificate of Origin, this form may be completed and must accompany the transaction. If your certificate has a clean certification block, use it and leave this alone. What makes the V6 worth reading anyway is the list printed across its foot, because that list is the current Alaska exemption rule, and three of the Division's own web pages still print the superseded one.

Written against Form V6 (Rev 08/2025), issued under 2 AAC 92.220 and 49 CFR Part 580, the state regulation and the federal rule the form cites together on its own first line. The exemption list on this form is printed in a way that trips people: item five reads as a rule about ten-year-old vehicles and then corrects itself in the same sentence. What it means is that the ten-year rule died on 31 December 2020 and the twenty-year rule has applied since 1 January 2021. Certify anything nineteen model years old or newer. The Division's Selling a Vehicle in Alaska page still says ten years, and it is wrong.

Two documents, and they are not the same thing. Take the blank Form V6 from the dmv.alaska.gov copy so you get the revision that is current today, then print our Form V6 guide and keep it beside you while you fill theirs in.

Step 1 · the form itself Blank Form V6 — Odometer Disclosure Statement PDF at dmv.alaska.gov · new tab Step 2 · how to fill it in Our filled-in Form V6 guide PDF · print and keep beside you

Filled in

What a completed one looks like

This is the actual Form V6, rendered from the PDF the Alaska Division of Motor Vehicles, Department of Administration publishes and completed end to end: letterhead, every field, and the blocks at the foot.

Amber — you write it
Grey — not yours to fill
Numbered — explained below

A completed Alaska DMV Form V6, Odometer Disclosure Statement. The seller block names Talia R. Sturdevant of 3712 Pioneer Loop, Palmer, AK 99645. The vehicle block carries vehicle identification number 5T7NU4FR7FX208461, year 2015, make Toyota, model 4Runner SR5, body style 4D SUV. The current odometer reading reads 118463 miles and both warning boxes beside it are empty. The seller signature is dated 08/18/2026. The buyer block names Wendell O. Kaniut of 1490 Chena Ridge Rd, Fairbanks, AK 99709, with a buyer signature acknowledging the disclosure dated the same day. — Rendered from the Division's own PDF, with the reading of a working odometer and neither discrepancy box touched. Amber is the seller's half; grey is the buyer's, filled in here so the sheet reads as a completed two-party record. The names, addresses and vehicle identification number are invented and the reading belongs to no real vehicle.

Field by field

Every line, in the order you meet it

1
You fill this in
Your full legal name
Name including suffix, as the face of the certificate has it.
Watch out: This is the name the buyer's application will be read against. If the title says a maiden name and the licence says a married one, the packet needs an explanation before it needs this form.
2
You fill this in
Your address
Street, city, state and zip on the single seller address line.
Watch out: Give the address the Division already holds for you. A new address here and an old one on the registration is one more thing for the counter to reconcile.
3
You fill this in
The vehicle identification number
Copied from the certificate into the long box, then checked against the vehicle.
Watch out: This form travels loose. The VIN is what stops it being filed against the wrong car, so it matters here more than it does on paper that is stapled to the title.
4
You fill this in
The odometer reading
Whole miles, exactly as the instrument shows them, in the box marked Miles.
Watch out: Read it in daylight with the ignition on rather than from memory. A wrong figure recorded on a title cannot be corrected afterwards, and the Division's own advice on the reading is not to guess.
5
You fill this in
The two warning boxes, both left empty
One for a reading in excess of the odometer's mechanical limits, one for a reading that is not the actual mileage. Neither is ticked on a working, honest clock.
Watch out: If one of them is true, tick it and say so in the advert as well. A buyer who finds out at the counter walks away, and by then you have handed over the title.
6
You fill this in
Sign and date
Your signature and the date, on the lines directly under the reading.
Watch out: Sign it in front of the buyer with the odometer visible. The whole document exists so that neither of you has to remember what the mileage was.
7
The buyer fills this in
The buyer's name and address
Their full legal name including suffix and their address, in the lower block.
Watch out: Take it off their licence while they are standing there. This sheet has to name a transferee before it means anything at all.
8
The buyer fills this in
The buyer acknowledges
Their signature and date on the line headed Buyer Signature Acknowledging Odometer Disclosure.
Watch out: Photograph the completed sheet before it leaves with them. You are the other party to a document you both have to keep for four years, and the copy you keep is the one that answers a later dispute.

At a glance

What goes where

On the form	What to put in it
Seller Information	Full legal name including suffix, a company, trust or agency name where one applies, then the seller's address, city, state and zip on one line.
Vehicle Identification Number	One long box across the width of the sheet. It is the only thing tying this loose page to the transaction it must accompany.
Year, make, model, body style	Four boxes under the VIN, with the form's own worked examples printed in the labels - Chevy, Ford, Jeep; Wrangler, Focus, Model 3; 2 door, Truck, SUV.
Current Odometer Reading	The figure, in miles, under the sentence that governs it: to the best of my knowledge the odometer reading reflects the actual mileage unless one of the below is checked.
The two discrepancy boxes	Headed WARNING - Odometer Discrepancy: only check one of these boxes if the mileage is not correct. The first certifies that the reading reflects the amount of mileage in excess of its mechanical limits; the second that the odometer reading is not the actual mileage. Both stay empty on an honest, working odometer.
Seller Signature and Today's Date	Your signature and the date, immediately under the reading. The person signing here has to be the owner shown on the face of the title or that owner's legal representative.
Buyer Information	The transferee's full legal name including suffix, any company name, and their address, city, state and zip - completed by the buyer, not by you.
Buyer Signature Acknowledging Odometer Disclosure	The buyer's own signature and date. The heading is the point: they are acknowledging what you disclosed, which is what makes the document a two-party record rather than a statement.
The exemptions, printed at the foot	Five numbered transfers the disclosure does not apply to: a vehicle having an unladen weight of more than 12,000 pounds; a vehicle that is not self-propelled; a new vehicle prior to its first transfer for purposes other than resale; a new vehicle sold directly by the manufacturer to an agency of the United States under contract; and a vehicle that is 10 years old or older until December 31, 2020, with the note that as of January 1, 2021 the rule is all vehicles that are 20 years old or older starting with the year model 2010.
The four-year retention line	Printed in the header block: both the transferor and the transferee shall retain a legible copy of the odometer disclosure statement for not less than four years. That duty is yours as well as your buyer's.

What gets this one rejected

•Using it when the title's own block is perfectly usable. The V6 is a substitute, and a transaction that arrives with both a completed certification on the certificate and a loose sheet saying something slightly different has manufactured its own discrepancy.
•Tenths of a mile. The reading box takes whole miles, and a figure written with a decimal invites the counter to decide which digits you meant.
•Ticking a discrepancy box to be careful. Only check one of these boxes if the mileage is not correct is the form's own instruction - a tick on a working odometer permanently brands the vehicle's record with a discrepancy that is not true.
•One signature. The form has a buyer signature line acknowledging the disclosure, and it is not optional decoration; an unsigned buyer half leaves the record incomplete.
•Sending it on its own. The form's wording is that it must accompany the transaction - it travels stapled to the title and the application, and posted separately it is a page about a vehicle nobody at the counter is currently looking at.

Rules that decide whether it is accepted

•The title comes first, always. The regulation puts the disclosure on the certificate: the owner completes the assignment and the odometer disclosure statement on the title and delivers the title to the buyer. The V6 is what you reach for when that block is missing, damaged or already filled in.
•Alaska's exemption is not the federal one. Read the numbers on the foot of this form carefully. The unladen weight cut-off here is 12,000 pounds, where the federal rule turns on 16,000 pounds of gross vehicle weight rating - a lower bar that catches more pickups. The age cut-off is twenty years, and has been since the start of 2021.
•An unknown reading is permanent. The Division's warning is worth reading twice: where no odometer disclosure is received, or it is not completed correctly, the odometer is recorded as Unknown on any title issued in future, and once recorded that way it can never be returned to a numbered reading unless the department did it in error.
•Only the owner on the face may sign. 2 AAC 92.220(c) restricts the signature to the owner shown on the face of the title or that owner's legal representative, and (d) forbids anyone from signing as both buyer and seller in the same transaction.
•Over twenty years old, the Division will still record it. The footnote under the exemptions says the mileage will be recorded if known for vehicles over 20 years old, and adds that it is not a requirement of the sale. Giving a reading on an exempt vehicle costs nothing and makes the advert honest.
•Keep your copy for four years. The retention sentence binds both parties. Four years is longer than most people keep anything about a car they no longer own, and it is the document that answers a mileage dispute two owners later.

Every line here was read off Form V6 (Rev 08/2025) itself — the PDF is here — and off the Alaska Division of Motor Vehicles, Department of Administration pages. This is plain-language help with a form, not legal advice, and where our wording and the agency's differ, theirs governs.

Back to all Alaska seller paperwork, or what selling a car in Alaska involves.

How to fill out Alaska Form V6

What a completed one looks like

Every line, in the order you meet it

Your full legal name

Your address

The vehicle identification number

The odometer reading

The two warning boxes, both left empty

Sign and date

The buyer's name and address

The buyer acknowledges

What goes where

What gets this one rejected

Rules that decide whether it is accepted

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