How to fill out Oklahoma 718

Since 1 July 2025 this is the document an Oklahoma private sale actually runs on. Where the record held for a vehicle is an electronic title there is no certificate to endorse, and Service Oklahoma's answer is this one-page form: it takes the place of the Oklahoma title, it is downloaded and printed rather than issued, and it carries a notary block at the foot because a sworn signature is still what moves ownership here. Its own second page sets the boundary in capitals - it can ONLY be used if the current title on record is electronic.

Written against 718 (9/2025), issued under 47 O.S. 1105 and 1107. Do not sign this at home and take it to be stamped afterwards. The whole legal weight of an Oklahoma transfer sits on a signature made in front of a notary, and a form signed in advance is a form a careful notary will send you away to redo - except that with this one you can simply print a fresh copy, which is the single mercy of the electronic era.

Two documents, and they are not the same thing. Take the blank 718 from the oklahoma.gov copy so you get the revision that is current today.

Every line, in the order you meet it

1. 1
   You fill this in

   Year, Make, Model and Vin

   The vehicle block along the top, copied from the state's record rather than from the vehicle.

   Watch out: The identification number is checked character by character at the counter. A transposed digit here is the difference between a five-minute transaction and a second trip.

2. 2
   You fill this in

   Title Number, Electronic Title Issue Date and Title Type

   The three fields that identify the electronic record standing behind this form.

   Watch out: If you cannot find an electronic title issue date anywhere, the record is probably still paper - in which case this is the wrong form and the assignment on the back of the certificate is the right one.

3. 3
   You fill this in

   Name of Buyer(s) and Address

   Every buyer taking ownership, spelled the way their driver licence spells them, with the address they live at.

   Watch out: Write it while the buyer is standing there and read it back. A middle initial that is on the licence and not on this form is enough to stall the transfer.

4. 4
   You fill this in

   Sale Price and Purchase Date

   What was actually paid and the day the keys changed hands.

   Watch out: Excise tax is worked out from this figure. Writing a lower one to help the buyer is a false statement in a document you are about to swear to, and it is the buyer who gets stopped at the counter, not you.

5. 5
   The buyer fills this in

   Lienholder Name and Lienholder Address

   The buyer's lender, where the buyer is financing the purchase.

   Watch out: Not your old lender. A lien of yours still showing on the record has to be released before the sale - recording it here does nothing at all.

6. 6
   You fill this in

   Sellers Names, Seller's Address, and the affirmation

   Your details, then your name written into the sentence that assigns and warrants ownership.

   Watch out: Warrant is the operative word. You are promising the ownership you are handing over is clean, which is why an unreleased lien is a problem you own and not one the buyer inherits.

7. 7
   You fill this in

   Name of Seller printed, and Signature of Seller

   Printed on the left rule, signed on the right - and only when the notary is watching.

   Watch out: Every owner the record names has to sign, and every one of them has to be in the room. Two owners and one notary appointment means two people going.

8. 8
   Somebody else fills this in

   The notary block

   State, county, the day, month and year, the commission expiry, the notary's signature and the seal.

   Watch out: The notary fills this in, not you. What you bring is photographic identification and an unsigned form.

9. 9
   Somebody else fills this in

   The two boxes on the right that are not yours

   Place Motor Vehicle Tax Stamp Here, and Dealer Number.

   Watch out: Leave both alone. Writing in either one is an alteration on a form whose own banner reads Void if altered.

What gets this one rejected

• •Any section left partly done. The banner across the top says all sections must be completed in full and that incomplete submissions may not be accepted.
• •A correction, a scratch-out or a covered-over figure. Two words under the same banner settle it: Void if altered.
• •A signature that already existed when the notary saw it. Oklahoma asks for the transfer to be sworn to before a notary public, which means watched.
• •Using it where the record is still a paper title. Page two limits it to a current title on record that is electronic, and a licensed operator can see which yours is.
• •A 2011-or-newer vehicle arriving without an odometer statement. The form's own note is that a federal odometer statement will be required in conjunction with this form.
• •A private sale arriving with no price document. Page two says a declaration of purchase price will be required where the vehicle was purchased from an individual.

Rules that decide whether it is accepted

• •It is the seller who fills this one in. Unlike most title applications, this is the seller's document from top to bottom. The buyer's part is to receive it, notarised, and carry it to a licensed operator in place of a title.
• •It is not the same thing as asking for a paper title. A seller who wants the physical certificate instead uses the print request route. This form does not produce a document from the state; it is the document.

Every line here was read off 718 (9/2025) itself — the PDF is here — and off the Service Oklahoma, Motor Vehicle Services pages. This is plain-language help with a form, not legal advice, and where our wording and the agency's differ, theirs governs.

Back to all Oklahoma seller paperwork, or what selling a car in Oklahoma involves.